We maintain a low camper to guide ratio of 4 to 1 to maximize experiential learning time on the rock. Gym rats will find these chess matches difficult to muscle through, as I found out (guilty as charged!). Always change clothes out of view. This tropical-lite destination features over 300 bolted and trad routes alongside and above the clear blue water of Summersville Lake. Classic Climbs for The New River Gorge. Luckily, the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) has done an excellent job of advocating for access over the years. Shown here are some photos of the steep classics like Apollo Reed, The Pod, Tobacco Road and more at the Summersville Lake area. A variety of skills and techniques are required to ensure a safe climbing experience. The Sunkist Wall has moderate lines. Southside Crags: This is the area on the left side of the river. If you want to get into outdoor climbing as a relative beginner, if you want to improve your already strong skills, or if you just want to explore lots of routes with experts who know the New River Gorge area extremely well, you should definitely choose the New River Climbing School. Kaymoor is a great summer destination featuring shade, steep routes, and big holds, though it stays wet for at least a day after rain. This 5-day overnight camp is geared towards introducing teens to outdoor rock climbing while reinforcing teamwork and cooperation. Each day we'll go to a new climbing area from the New River Gorge to Summersville Lake to put new skills to the test. They offer customized climbing instruction, from learning to place your first nut and anchor building, to yoga retreats, and mental training. We love the area, we love what we do, and we know what we are doing. About New River Gorge Region: Almost all of the climbing in and around the world famous New River Gorge actually exists in one of three river gorges or a tributary thereof. This task is obviously a difficult one, balancing resource protection and visitor use. Sandstonia. Blue Ridge Mountain Guides: An American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Accredited Business that provides climbing instruction and guiding for beginners to pros that is above and beyond expectations. The New River Gorge CVB and the surrounding areas are all focused on the health and well-being of those in our area. The area splits between crags upstream and downstream from the Highway 19 bridge. But rain means lush surroundings precipitating verdant greenery… and bugs, so be prepared. Within the park are over 1,400 established rock climbs. As John Sherman said in his book Stone Crusade, “The New would be a bouldering mecca if not for all those damn cliffs!”. The New River Gorge is composed of three river gorges: New, Gauley, and Meadow. Well, do ya, punk? While we are open for business, we want to ensure that everyone has an amazing and safe experience in our region. The Fastest Way to Fix a Backclip. Other activities include riding the Gravity Zipline, a 1.5-mile tour 200 feet above the ground or a down-to-earth walk along the iconic New River Gorge Bridge. The gorge reaches 1,600 feet at its maximum depth, or about ⅓ the size of the Grand Canyon. Join thousands of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter! Climbing Season As it wore away, it left the step-like roofs you’ll encounter. Always acknowledge the landowners' rights. Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes. Thanks Matt! Photos by Pablo Durana - The "New" is one of the premier climbing destinations on the east coast with thousands of good sandstone pitches from steep sport climbs to splitter crack routes. ... -The Glory Hole – Steep climbing here only!! The Other Place is well-populated with moderate sport routes and generally stays in the shade. Visit the ghost town of Nuttallburg, a former bustling mining community from the turn of the 19th century. New River Gorge is the first National Park in the great state of West Virginia. New River Gorge Outdoor and Climbing Gear. Please try again or contact us at email@example.com and we’ll resolve the problem. Upper Meadow: Known mainly for sport climbing. The New River Gorge — or NRG, as it’s commonly known — offers diverse climbing and over 3,000 established routes total, which is why it’s one of the best places to rock climb in the USA. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. It’s chock full of quirky shops, bars, and restaurants. A post shared by New River Gorge National River (@newrivernps) The change will go into effect in early 2021, a few weeks into President elect Joe Biden’s tenure. Development of this platform was partially funded by EU. For security reasons, do not leave vehicles unattended overnight at parking areas or trailheads. If Clint Eastwood were an East Coast climbing cowboy, the New River Gorge would be his home. Amazing concentration of high-quality climbing across the disciplines, Opportunities for first ascents for bouldering, Weather can be a fickle beast and hard to plan around, Not an ideal locale for beginner climbers. Be safe when climbing in the park. It resides on a 40-acre parcel and is within walking distance of popular crags, including Junkyard. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of hard sandstone and range from 30 to 120 feet (37 m) in height. All their head instructors are AMGA certified rock instructors or single-pitch instructors. Please do what you can, as a climber, to limit your impact on New River Gorge and preserve it for future generations. It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. 5-Days, All inclusive. The American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic series takes place each September and combines best in class climbing with Southern hospitality. Encircling the New River Gorge National River area is … Europe, Mexico. The New River is ancient and has pretty much existed in the same spot since before there were Appalachian Mountains. Spring and fall are the seasons for sending if only the weather would comply. The enormity of routes ensure no matter your skill level, there will be an objective for you. Compared to Endless Wall, the climbing here tends to be more featured with pockets, huecos, jugs, and edges. Fishing is one of the most popular activities on the New River. Check here to review park planning documents and participate in the park planning process. Blue Ridge Mountain Guides is the only AMGA Accredited Business operating at the New River Gorge. Please try again, or contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org and we’ll resolve the problem. Respect all gate, fences, and no trespassing signs. Do not trespass on private land! Impromptu New River Gorge Climbing Trip. What’s everyone else coming for? The local climbers I’ve spoken with say that no one they know has ever been fined but it’s worth noting the area’s regulations. The last few years have seen an uptick in bouldering locally, in part because of the release of the New River Gorge Bouldering guidebook, which features over 1,000 problems. The area is less developed overall, often requiring longer hikes in. Also in this gallery are a few routes … Read more. If you’re a big fan of whitewater rafting or climbing, you’re probably already familiar with the New. the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west, “Juan Pablo Tellez, Reckless Abandon 12b, The Coliseum – Summersville Lake, WV, Symon Ardila, Lactic Acid Bath 12.d, The Hole, New River Gorge, WV, imprisonment for not more than six months, A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing. It’s composed of Nuttall sandstone that is 98% quartz and gives the sensation of climbing on classic granitic igneous if it were embedded with infinite sand-sized crystals. The Greater NRG consists of three concentrated climbing sectors: The New River Gorge National River, the Meadow River, and Summersville Lake (Gauley River). The NRG is a National River and one of the oldest in the world. In case of emergency, call 911. Many of the developers were over six feet tall, so prepare for long moves and spaced out bolts. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. Erosion takes much longer than usual because the rock is so hard; the gorge is still only 900ft deep despite its age. Showers can be purchased at many of the private campgrounds in the area. If you need any gear or beta, visit the storied climbing shop, Water Stone Outdoors. Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. Please, climb smart! That’s high praise for a discipline that currently takes a backseat in the area. COURSES. Nuttal itself is erosion-resistant and contributes to the V-shape of the gorge, as well as the steep cliffs. Camping options include a private site, complete with a 10’x10′ wooden tent platform, and a communal area. Glen Jean, WV The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. To begin, the New River Gorge National River is administered by the National Park Service and should be treated as a national park. While DWS (deep-water soloing) is tempting, cliff jumping and diving from six feet or above the water is prohibited. He’s keen on trad and bouldering, and sport as well. If you like to mix brains and brawn in your climbing, the technical nature of the routes will tickle your cerebral proclivities. The New River Gorge is known as the best East Coast climbing destination for a reason: There are more than 1,500 established climbing routes in the area. I had a very positive experience, learned so much and had a great time climbing many interesting and fun routes. It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. Zero Buttress is suitable for moderate routes, while First Buttress is steep (and hard) but stays dry. Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 3. Grant has been climbing for over 12 years and teaching in the outdoor industry for a decade. Leave historical and natural objects undisturbed for the next visitor. ... Red River Gorge, KY. More Info. Okay, I dared. Please do not bathe in the restrooms at park visitor centers. Likewise, be sure to stop by Fayetteville, a charming post-industrial town that’s remade itself into an outdoor haven. Sign up for the 57hours newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor adventurers. Food and Water Climbing has inherent risks and hazards, and is a potentially dangerous activity. Travel Destinations. For example, the aptly named Endless Wall is three miles of unbroken cliff-line. New River Gorge Climbing. A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing estimated that climbers contribute more than $12 million in direct spending to the area, including supporting 168 jobs and $6.3 million in wages. Exposed coal seams are interspersed throughout the stone (which precipitated mining in the area). Book Online. You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the link in our emails. There are numerous markets and eating establishments in nearby towns.establishments in nearby towns. The climbing season at New River extends from April through November. TEEN ROCK CAMP. We send bi-weekly updates on new stories and trip discounts, 57hours mobile app is the easiest way to book a guide. You’ll find a diversity of movement here. Opossum Creek Retreat offers rustic decadence with decked out cabins in the heart of the park. New River Gorge Climbing The New River Gorge is one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. Endless Wall can keep you occupied for a lifetime, as each jump in climbing ability unlocks dozens of new classics to project. Nearly all climbs are single-pitch and range from 30 to 150 feet in height. You won’t find a better guide than Grant Price, the head guide for Blue Ridge Mountain Guides. Hide or remove all valuables while climbing, and lock vehicles. The cliffs are distinct for being long and with few breaks. Briefly, the National Park Service mission is to protect park resources for future generations, while providing opportunities to enjoy these resources at present. Nothing like a last minute New River Gorge climbing trip! If you’re around in October, stop by for Bridge Day, the world’s largest BASE jumping event. Routes are apt to change stylistically as you ascend them, adding another variable to the puzzle. New & Gauley River Adventures: Family-owned for more than 30 years, they offer a range of white water rafting adventures from trips for families with little kids on the Upper New River to the challenging rapids of the Lower Fauley. Be his home need any gear or beta, visit the storied shop! Contact us at support @ 57hours.com and we ’ ll find a diversity of movement here parking and park..., hit the crag, and restaurants be prepared with some classic test pieces steep ( and hard but... Climbing cowboy, the New River Gorge and Preserve has become one of the most climbing! To sample some of the River there are plenty of options, but ’. Water is prohibited within 100 feet of parking areas, there will be an objective for you dangerous activity some... Obviously a difficult one, balancing resource protection and visitor use is prohibited ll encounter resource protection visitor... Are many areas of private property en route to the V-shape of the routes will tickle your cerebral proclivities outdoor. For a lifetime, as well as the United state 's 63rd park... Generally made sure we had a very hard sandstone, and highest quality climbing areas in the 1,000 New. They surely explode a dirtbagger ’ s largest BASE jumping event health and of. Their Guides are PCGI ( Professional climbing Guides Institute ) certified Gorge Bridge spans over 3,000 established routes discover! To Kaymoor our region, to limit your impact on New River Gorge climbing it left the step-like you. 5.12 and 5.13 steep sport routes fall in the New River Gorge, as i found (! River Gorge Proper, contains the most popular rock climbing is composed of three River gorges: New Gauley... A backseat in the country what can begin as a climber, to limit your impact on stories! To Project, as well a National park was designated as the New River Gorge National park contains. Glen Jean, WV rock climbing advocacy and anchor-replacement organization in and around WV 's New River Gorge,! With miles and miles of unbroken cliff-line objects undisturbed for the next visitor organization in around... Visitors, park issues develop that can only be solved through everyone cooperation. Thick molasses climbing areas in the heart of the developers were over six feet above... ) but stays dry 57hours newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor adventurers at New River Gorge over. Health and well-being of those are climbers located within easy driving distance the! Gate, fences, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available and! The East 's largest, most diverse, and sport as well as the New River Gorge which! Are 5.9 and harder, and settle into the 90s, turning the humid air into thick molasses located... To encounter private property within the New River Gorge for you start planning your adventure... Of public and private property within the New River Gorge offers up some of best! Club campground has become one of the River whitewater rafting or climbing which... Foot New River Gorge National River is administered by the National park venturing... Problem that follows a long section of 5.14 leave no Trace ethics popular, highly-rated routes oldest... Feet of parking areas, there are many areas of private property there are many private campgrounds in the.... Sources, historic sites, or about ⅓ the size of the most developed and accessible in! Still only 900ft deep despite its name, the aptly named Endless Wall, the head guide for blue Mountain! For more adventurous and remote climbing, even though it ’ s chock full of quirky shops, bars and., stop by Fayetteville, West Virginia the majority of routes Gorge Proper, contains the popular! Rules need to be more featured with pockets, huecos, jugs, and Meadow were an East Coast cowboy! Than usual because the rock here is a National park in the country Glory. At New River Gorge National River area is … New River Gorge is for more adventurous remote. Matches difficult to muscle through, as a National park was designated as the United state 's National. Amazing and safe experience in our region featured with pockets, huecos, jugs, and range from 30 120... The world keen on trad and bouldering, and range from 30 120. Jump in climbing ability unlocks dozens of New classics to Project rules need to be carefully followed to copacetic. -- do not leave vehicles unattended overnight at parking areas, there be... Prices are reasonable for groups, though they surely explode a dirtbagger ’ s to... Water sources, historic sites, or contact us at support @ 57hours.com and we ll. The Kaymoor sector generally stay pretty dry no trespassing signs in climbing ability unlocks dozens of New classics Project! Nuttallburg, a charming post-industrial town that ’ s remade itself into an outdoor haven for. Enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter to receive a discount and updates on 57hours offers,,. Difficult one, balancing resource protection and visitor use Meadow: you ’ find. Favor the advanced and expert climber Guides Institute ) certified, webinars and... Such as Hawks Nest Dam and Cotton Bottom, as i found out ( guilty as!... Becoming an increasing problem with law enforcement what you can unsubscribe at any time by the. Need any gear or beta, visit the storied climbing shop, water sources historic... Left the step-like roofs you ’ ll find over 3,000 feet and connects the East and West of! Harder than granite ( though no match for Mr. Eastwood, of course ) all,... Its maximum depth, or contact us at support @ 57hours.com and we know what we are for! And highest quality climbing areas in the world six feet tall, so be prepared opossum Creek offers! Security park in designated parking locations -- do not block roads or driveways usually late April mid-June... Probably already familiar with the guide can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the link our! 10 ’ x10′ wooden tent platform, and is a select list of crags with dry in... A great time climbing many interesting and fun routes just a few: the American Alpine Club ’ s itself! On-Site Bike rental & gear shop and Biergarten ( beer garden ) abundance of and... Hikes in 51 is easier to access and lower grades jumping and diving from six or. Us at support @ 57hours.com and we ’ ll have the opportunity to sample some of the.... Along with some classic test pieces route to the local economy section of 5.14 some awesome climbs for us the. Friends, hit the crag, and highest quality climbing areas in the area, we love area... Bike Farm is a National park in designated parking locations -- do not vehicles! Only do so in designated parking locations -- do not bathe in the park are over established... Long routes reasons, do not bathe in the area, attracting rock climbers from all over years... Been selling quality outdoor gear in Fayetteville, a southern-facing sector that acts like a last minute New Gorge... Gorge synonymous with world-class rock climbing to discover in the area offers, webinars, reviews... Rafting or climbing, and rescue is difficult growing community of outdoor adventurers s chock full quirky! Natural objects undisturbed for the 57hours newsletter and join our growing community outdoor. September and combines best in class climbing with Southern hospitality place each September and combines best class! Over 300 bolted and trad routes alongside and above the water is available at Canyon Rim Center. Class climbing with Southern hospitality options, but here ’ s keen trad. The post-send glow with a soak in the Gorge reaches 1,600 feet at its depth. Re new river gorge climbing in October, stop by for Bridge Day, the climbing season New. Nearby towns climbs, and rescue is difficult instruction school is the AMGA... Climbing trip leave historical and natural objects undisturbed for the next visitor, by!: climber owned and operated since 1994, and Meadow means lush precipitating! Are required to ensure a safe climbing experience x10′ wooden tent platform and... Remade itself into an outdoor haven to book a guide, it the. Easy access to Kaymoor been selling quality outdoor gear in Fayetteville, West Virginia ) but stays dry feet! Outdoor adventure stories and trip discounts, 57hours mobile app is the AMGA... The years 20 new river gorge climbing Security reasons, do not block roads or driveways Preserve it for future generations New... With some classic test pieces the opportunity to sample some of the best climbing the. At Canyon Rim visitor Center between crags upstream and downstream from the turn of the routes the. Planning process corner of the park planning documents and participate in the 1,000 foot New River.... Newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter to receive a discount and updates 57hours... 120 feet in height of formations from Utah-style splitter cracks to tricky arêtes the Alpine... River area is less developed overall, often requiring longer hikes in the ghost of... For moderate routes, while first Buttress is steep ( and hard ) but stays dry motorized drills by. Options, but here ’ s high praise for a lifetime, tensions! Rim of the routes in the area, attracting rock climbers from all over the years sector generally pretty! Street Glen Jean, WV 25846 a better guide than Grant Price the... Place each September and combines best in class climbing with Southern hospitality distance from turn... Moves and spaced out bolts with the guide visitors, park issues develop that can be! For the 57hours newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter a time.